I use a 63cm Trek Madone 5.2 for weekend riding and commuting to work, but I changed jobs to a more undesirable part of town with a commute that was too long for cycling. I still craved a bike for occasional early morning spins or lunch time jaunts.
I wanted something relatively cheap (under $1000), not flashy to avoid theft, (dark colored or single toned if possible), durable, at least a 63 cm frame, wide tires for potholes, average weight, a semi-road bike geometry for comfort if I needed to do a long ride, no real need for disk brakes and no weight from shock absorbers I wouldn’t need.
I went to at least a dozen bike shops and tested models from Bianchi, Specialized, K2, LeMond, Kona, Cannondale, Raleigh, Giant and more. None had frames that were big enough, only Trek did.
The road bike lines were either too expensive or delicate for what I wanted. The Trek Cyclocross XO models were tempting, but were either brightly colored or beyond the budget. The Portland was similarly affected.
The Trek 520 was an option, but my new job is near the sea and I was concerned about rusting with the steel frame. I also was concerned about the difficulty of using the friction down tube shifters in rapidly changing traffic conditions.
I quickly learned that the Trek FX, SU, Soho and 7000 series all share the same basic frame. Some have disk brakes and others have handle bars that sprout upward to tempt you to eat an ice cream cone while riding along the boardwalk. The rest just look like road bikes without the loopy handle bars.
The Trek Soho and SU models met most of my criteria, but they were not in stock in any of the bike stores I visited. I didn’t have ice cream plans, so the 7000s didn’t fit the bill.
It quickly came down to the FX series.
Having significantly limited my choices I reviewed the entire line from the 7.2 FX through to the 7.9 FX. The 7.6 FX with the carbon fork and rear stays was tempting. It was lightweight, and just slightly over budget, but the 22.5″ maximum frame size was too small. The frame color also contrasted against the black carbon fiber parts, making it more noticeable. The 7.5 FX was cheaper, but only came in the smaller frame size and was available only in bright red.
It came down to a black 25″ 7.3 FX. (It comes in other colors too) I agonized over the weight difference between it and the more expensive models in the line, but with clipless pedals the difference was barely noticeable on the legs. There was a pronounced weight difference between the two, but I was comparing models with different frame sizes. This really didn’t matter as I didn’t intend to do racing where a couple pounds could make a big difference.
The $500 price was right especially as I was not sure of what my riding schedule at would be. Spending a lot to have a bike decorate my desk area would be a waste. At least with this sticker it could be tolerable.
My experience with bike shops has been eye opening. There is an overwhelming desire to sell what they have in stock, especially after Christmas, whether or not it meets your criteria. I’m tall, and a 25″ / 63cm frame is a little small, yet many 59cm models were recommended. I have ridden frames that are too small; talk to my knees and wrists for the whole agonizing story.
The other thing you have to watch out for is the guilt trip you sign up for when components are discussed. If you don’t have Ultegra, Dura-Ace, or 105 then you’re a nobody. Well I had a nobody budget, and when the component cogs begin to wear down in a year of hypothetical constant Indiana Jones riding, I’ll see whether it’s in my budget to replace or upgrade them on this run-around bike. I’ve used Ultegra and 105 on other bikes. Ultegra does shift slightly better, and from the bike shop assistants perspective they are “more durable” in an unquantifiable sort of way, but for group rides with friends and commuting I don’t really care.
Light weight carbon fiber forks, frames and seat posts were the other big things I was up-sold on. When I asked about upgrading to a carbon fork on a cheap bike, they all told me that investing in lighter wheels would be much more effective. Guess what I did when the budget permitted.
The dampening effect of carbon on road vibration was another selling point. That may be true, but carbon attracts theft, and it was unlikely I’d be riding a distance long enough for its effect to be felt. A pair of gel padded shorts could work just fine on those few occasions. I already have some.
On the 7.3 FX, I swapped out the handle bars for a flat one which gives me a slightly lower stance similar to a road bike and bar ends to give me different hand positions on the handle bars. I also use clipless pedals and a longer stem. I also invested in a good saddle. Bikes are notorious for coming with cheap seats that are good enough for the showroom, but become a pain in the rear on longer rides. Everything else is stock.
I have taken it out on a number of 13 mile loops with a steep 200 ft climb over 2500 ft distance, 600 ft of climbing in total. The 7.3 FX handles it well, especially on damp roads where the traction of the wider tires is welcome. The downhill speed is slowed by the rolling resistance of the tires, but on steep slopes this is a benefit. The 7.3 FX’s stability and better braking is much more noticeable than with the Madone in such conditions. I have ridden it up a 5 mile bumpy paved mountain road rising 2000 ft. It handled capably. On the descent I didn’t have to cringe with every jarring jolt and sudden curve like I would do on the lighter carbon frame of the Madone.
My Madone has both a compact crank and a large 11-27 cassette customization to help me with steep hills, but the climbing gear ratios are slightly less favorable than that of the FX 7.3. I also feel the more relaxed stance of the FX 7.3 makes it easier to ride uphill than on the true road bike. It’s slower due to the easy “granny” gearing, but this makes it more enjoyable.
At high speeds the Madone is noticeably faster. The FX 7.3’s greater weight, wide tires, lower gearing and less efficient rider stance takes its toll. This increases the temptation to over exert yourself to get true road bike speeds on the FX 7.3. If you relax and accept the 20% speed reduction it can be quite an enjoyable ride especially as the tires absorb a lot of road vibration.
This is a very capable cost effective bike. Perfect for those who have made a New Year’s resolution, or those who want to lose a few pounds when they are not fully sure they will stick with the plan. It’s a bike you can park without worrying too much. With a flat bar the stance is similar to that of a road bike when your hands are on top of the road bike’s handle bars, not down in the loops. This makes it quite comfortable on long rides because more of your weight is supported with your arms, not just your rear like the more relaxed hybrids do. In retrospect I should have started with a model like this for my original 10 mile commute, but I decided to splurge on the Madone. The FX has fixtures for saddle bag panniers or racks in the rear. If I lived in a rainier climate, or the road traffic were chaotic, then I’d consider something with disk brakes. I’ve heard of people using these bikes in century rides and after experiencing it I see that it isn’t inconceivable to do so with skinnier tires. You wouldn’t win, but you’d have a lot of multipurpose fun.
If my physique allowed me more choices then I could be finicky about the subtle differences between brands. Even so, I found the experience as intimidating as choosing a bottle of vintage cabernet at a Napa winery. There was a constant battle between what I wanted and what people thought I should want. The local bike shop references to the DuraAce, Ultegra, and 105 lines of components, carbon fiber, stance and weight brought cartoonish images of sommelier’s prancing around extolling the virtues of bouquet, terroir, microclimates and chocolaty fruitiness.
If I were a competitive racer or professional cyclist, these subtleties would be supremely important, but too often I felt part of a conniving conspiracy to convert a quick spin to pick up a lunch time sandwich into the Tour de France.
So what upgrades would I recommend to new riders with this bike or entry level models in the FX series? A few months later, when your household CFO gives you permission to burn another hole in your wallet, try researching the following:
Clipless pedals and shoes: Confusingly clipless pedals are the ones with ski-boot type clips. The clip types are the ones that look like little baskets attached to the pedals. With clipless pedals and cycling shoes your foot will feel as if has been epoxied to the bike. You can not only push the pedal on the down stroke, but you can also pull it up on the up stroke. I use the mountain bike style shoes which have a rubber sole. They allow me to walk without the very unstable, noisy and silly looking waddle that road bike shoes provide. One day I’ll become obsessively preoccupied by weight, and counting every gram I’ll buy a pair of road bike shoes so I can look macho in that hot pants sort of way, but not right now. This combination can drop 5 to 10 minutes off a one hour ride. If specialized shoes are a too much too soon, or you are uncommitted to riding but want a little more zip, then try different tires.
Lighter / slicker tires: The 7.3 FX comes with 700×32C tires that are ideal for rough roads and trails of unpredictable quality. The 32mm wide tire absorbs a lot of punishment without puncturing and helps to provide a soft ride. They do make the bike slower than a true road bike and there are times when you could over stress your knees if you decide to keep up with them. I had this problem at work where a motley crew of us ride a 10 mile circuit at lunch time and the poor 7.3 FX just couldn’t keep up. I probably slowed them down by 10 minutes over the circuit while they patiently waited for me at the top of each hill. This time can be significant if you have to catch a post lunch meeting and I felt very guilty.
There are days when I feel joy should result from reduced effort. Everyone needs less pain, more gain sometimes. So I invested in narrower 700×25C tires and can now hold my head up high. The difference was definitely noticeable, a little faster with a lot less stress on the knees. I could now easily keep up with the group. I also had to buy slightly thinner inner tubes too as the old ones wouldn’t fit. Just remember that the 700×25C tire may be too delicate for riding in Manhattan, or cruising along a muddy fire road. They may also not be the right choice at the beginning of your diet, ask your bike shop for their advice.
Lighter wheels: I don’t think these are worthwhile. You need a heavy rim for commuting. The gains from improved tires will outweigh the slight additional benefit of this upgrade. If bragging rights are involved, well, that’s a different story. In the past, I succumbed to this temptation in the past on a hybrid bike. The gain from a tire change is unquestionably superior to the improvement due to lighter wheels. Lose the weight from your midriff and save the money for your “road bike fund”.
Carbon Fork: There are a some benefits to adding a carbon fork. They are a little lighter, and there is an unquantifiable assertion of less vibration. Unfortunately after market forks can be expensive, sometimes rivaling the cost of a second hand hybrid bike in good condition. If you like to tinker, well go ahead, but a better investment would be to drink less sodas and save the money for your “road bike fund”.
Summary: I now leave my hybrid at work and ride it at lunch time two days a week. The midday workout really invigorates my day. If you want a fun, general purpose bike, then make no modifications. The benefit of the hybrid is that if you start to enjoy your New Year’s resolution to lose a few pounds and choose to evolve into a more serious cyclist, then the upgrade path to near road bike performance with clipless pedals and 700×25C tires is affordable.
Bike companies buy their components at discounts of up to 70%, so upgrading components at the retail store easily becomes uneconomical especially when labor costs are included. If you feel a strong need for more improvements, just buy a new bike and forget this one. Remember, that when you do, Shimano 105 components are the best top end choice for the “not so sure, well maybe, I have a budget, I really should start a diet” road bike cyclist no matter what the sales assistant tells you. Instead of investing in a lighter bike, get skinnier tires, ask about a compact crank and get into a bike routine that helps you lose some pounds. I’m not too proud to say I have made that mistake before.
In my opinion, aluminum framed hybrid bikes with a near road bike geometry are a good choice for commuting and fun rides that could turn into longer adventures on asphalt or gravel. This is true no matter what brand you buy. The 7.3 FX was the right choice for me and my specific needs for a second bike. This could be true for you.
If you have any comments, please let me know.

I know it’s been a year and a half since you posted this article, but it is very well written and it helped me settle on the 7.3fx when I pulled the trigger (only I went with the fire engine red model since it is either inside my house or under my body at all times). Anyway, thanks!
Fuzz Martin
By: fuzzmartin on June 24, 2009
at 2:48 pm
How has your experience been with the 7.3FX?
By: Peter on December 5, 2009
at 7:43 pm
Peter,
I purchased my 7.3 in July of 2008. This is my first decent bike. I’ve been commuting with it for nearly a year and I have no complaints. I recently signed up for an Olympic triathlon which will include a 24mile ride. One of the trainers said I can use my Trek as long as I upgrade the wheels. I was considering replacing the tires and tubes and wheels. Do you think the gain in speed and time will justify the expenditure?
Thanks,
Ezra
By: ez1973 on July 10, 2009
at 10:49 pm
It depends on whether you view the triathlon as an event you must win, or as one to prove your capabilities by just finishing. There is almost no limit to the amount of time and money you can spend on this hobby especially when you include multiple frames and all the replaceable parts you can purchase. If you start entering events you then have to add in the registration fees and travel expenses.
I have gone through the super light component phase and I found the friendships made through the sport to be more important to me. So I have begun to invest in a more comfortable bike with a lot less concern for weight and more interest in economy.
Until you are sure of what you want to achieve, I’d spend minimally. Go with the thinnest tires your existing wheels will take, try an entry level set of aero bars for the handle bars and enjoy life. You can spend $500 to $1,000 on entry level competition wheels. When you feel that urge it’s almost time to invest in a new bike.
By: Peter on July 12, 2009
at 4:13 pm
Peter,
Thanks for quick replay and advice. Since this is my first race the goal is to complete the race in a decent time. Actually winning a race isn’t even on the radar yet. So I’m definitely leaning towards spending the minimum until after the first couple races. I want to see how much I like the experience and how well my body with stands it. If I start doing more Tri’s than I’ll probably end up investing in a true tribike. Like you said the amount spent on upgrades at a certain point stops making sense.
Thanks,
Ezra
By: ez1973 on July 15, 2009
at 9:46 pm
Well Damn!!
I just sold my 7.3 disk brake model on craigslist. “Very well used” is the comment from the buyer. I put a tremendous amount of miles on this bike. I was catching roadies towards the end. This was my first real bike and thought maybe I was missing something.
I was gearing up for the purchase of the 7.6 model, but now after reading your post I’m thinking maybe I need to go back to the 7.3!
Damn your insightful post!
By: phredphnerd on July 26, 2009
at 5:42 am
What did you eventually buy? The 7.6?
By: Peter on December 5, 2009
at 7:42 pm
Thanks Peter for a great review of the bike. It was very helpful.
Would you mind advising me regarding choosing the proper size for the FX.
I’m 6′3″, 180 pounds, my local store recommended I go with a 22.5 frame instead of a 25.
Do you think that 22.5 is big enough for me? I’m concerned on the long run it will feel small.
I did try a 22.5 FX 7.2 on the store and it felt ok but I’m a total newbie, this is my first ‘real’ bike.
I’m concerned the store is just trying to seell inventory, I didnt feel the guy was very into sizing a bike for me at the moment.
Thanks again.
By: sodium75 on February 24, 2010
at 4:50 pm
I am similar to you in both height and weight, my inseam is 36″ so I really needed the 25 inch frame. Generally speaking, if you sit on the saddle and cannot extend your leg to be almost straight when the pedal is in the lowest position, then the frame is too small or the seat post is two low. There should be a very slight bend in the knee. If the knee bends too much they will begin to hurt when stressed going up an incline or after long rides. You risk permanent damage. Happened to me before, but the knees managed to recover.
In my experience the handle bars shouldn’t be more than about an inch or two below the level of the seat. Any lower and your wrists will hurt. Fortunately slightly upwardly curved handlebars are a relatively cheap upgrade. About $20.
Don’t buy what is in the store unless it really fits. If not you will find yourself adding bits and pieces to the bike to make it more comfortable. Eventually you’ll realize that you made a poor investment but by then you would have spent a small fortune in money and time. It has happened to me, and I only got true satisfaction with my road bike when I bought a custom frame. The large framed FX was OK as the frame was fairly large to begin with.
Over extension of the seat and the use of handlebar risers can make your bike unstable.
By: Peter on February 24, 2010
at 5:50 pm
Thanks for the response Peter.
I’ve decided to go with the 7.3 22.5″ frame. My inseam is 34 and I get pain in my knee when I fully extend my leg so I like to leave a some bend at the knees.
The local store ordered it and I should have it early next week.
Any mods you recommend?
By: sodium75 on February 27, 2010
at 10:19 pm
Remember when you get fitted that you don’t want to have a deep bend in the knee, it could make things worse. Just have a slight bend when the pedal is at the lowest position.
I’d wait a month or two before starting to make modifications if any. Get over any buyer’s remorse on the base model. You can easily spend thousands upgrading a bike $20 to $100 at a time. The less emotional and financial attachment you have to the bike at the beginning, the more you’ll enjoy it as a newbie.
That said, Trek really needs a model between 22.5″ and 25″, so you may need to purchase a slightly longer seat post or new handle bars that rise up to match the seat if your body dimensions are in between the two frame sizes. There are also head tube extenders that you could investigate, so you may not have to buy a new set of bars.
The other recommendations in the post are good options too, and the more pricey ones would be better spent on a used bike than a brand new one. That way the discount paid on the secondhand bike matches the additional cost of the upgrades.
Wait for now, and only do the upgrades when you know you are hooked on cycling.
By: Peter on February 28, 2010
at 5:14 am
With the 22.5 my leg was almost completely extended with the pedal on the lower position. The handle bar was about 2″ below the seat so I think I’m ok.
I hope I made the right decision going with the 22.5. They really should have a size between 22 and 25.
I will update here once I’ve done a few rides if the weather permits (New England).
Thanks again.
By: sodium75 on February 28, 2010
at 6:29 pm
I see from your CV you lived in the Caribbean. I’m from the Dominican Republic myself. Now living in Massachusetts.
By: sodium75 on February 28, 2010
at 6:39 pm